Devon: Verity – Border Morris – Goats, Haiku

We recently rented a cottage for along weekend with old friends.  Valerie and Becky have known each other for nearly 70 years!   It was in Watermouth Cove, Devon  and, although the cottage was a bit seedy, it was a lovely place to be.

We missed seeing the cove at full tide, we were often out and the 13 hour cycle was out of sync with us.

The top end was an untidy jumble of a boat yard, they  always seem to be like this like this.  One evening I watched a huge mobile crane creep from the hard across the beach to the work shop where it lifted a shiny engine destined, I suppose, for one of the yachts being worked on.

I sat on a bench and chatted with someone who told me that there are pockets of Cornish-like language in Devon.  We were both interested in languages and dialects.  He was Cornish but now lived nearby.

Looking out to sea I realized that, as the sea is an electrolyte and with layers due to temperature, pressure and concentration variations it is in the way of a neural network that connects us with all continents and islands and boats  bring people to and from our land, eels travel from the Sargasso sea to our rivers.  It should nurture, help us understand others and enable development.

Devon Watermouth Cove Valerie

 

 

 

 

The bay and my thoughts inspired a Haiku.

“Sea-nurtured ideas.

This cove will soon run with them;

she waits with her  own.”

 

 

 

 

 

The second day we went to spend the day in Ilfracombe We parked above the town which was great as we were able to see the statue Verity” by Damian Hurst who lives nearby. 

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It was quite a dramatic sight and I was pleased to see it from a distance.   Public art, especially statuary can be dramatic like this and always gives a lift to the ambiance of where ever it is.

Devon Fishing nets

 

 

On the walk down to the town we passed a tumble of fishing nets and lobster or crab pots.  It  smelt strongly of fish and the sea.  The air in our town is sterile the same as in all towns and cities but in the country and by the sea it has character, dung in a field, animals, old fish and the sea.

Devon seagull

 

 

There was, as ever, a seagull eying us up, gauging if we were a source of food or not.

Devon Morris dancing

 

 

 

 

We came across some Morris dancers in this case Border Morris. A friend who plays accordion for Morris Dancers tells me he saw dances in north west India who danced as the Morris does in England.  It is said the blacked faces were a disguise to prevent persecution in witch-hunt days.  I feel it could be a reference to the black faces of the doddymen who lit the navigational beacons long ago; perhaps.  The tattered coats remind me of the watchers wearing long cloaks made of feathers I saw in a vision, or they could be a reference to shamanic coats.

“Black face, tattered coat,

thwacking sticks to sensuous tunes.

They’ve danced for cent’ries”

 

Here they are dancing.  Like an idiot I had my iPhone upright so the video is narrow!

Devon Veracity 3 extractVerity was close by and we went to see her.  It is a striking statue of a beautiful young woman in 20 tonnes of bronze.  From the harbour’s edge we could see layers had been stripped from some parts of her exposing muscles, sinews and her baby; she is pregnant.

Long ago I gave up trying to understand meanings of art; I just enjoy it now.

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There was the omnipresent seagull enjoying the warm, bronze foot.Devon Veracity 4

Up popped another Haiku

“Shapely, defiant

the beautiful Verity.

20 tonnes of bronze.”

 

After a Cornish pasty, we had a ride in a pony and wagonette.  the driver(?) was tall, dark-haired taciturn – though she did tell me how expensive the tyres were and how often they wore out and that she needed the camera to record the idiots she meets as she gives rides – her friend chattered away.  ” It is her pony and wagonette, she is my bestest friend.”

Devon Wagonette

“She’s my bestest friend.

  • It’s her pony and wagonette.

She and I are silent.”

Devon Kyaks

Before we left I took this picture and then we walked back up the hill to our car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day we went to The Valley of Rocks where about 50 feral goats live in the cliffs.

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We walked past Castle Rock that had fit, or daft, people dashing up and down but no sign of the goats.  Going round North to follow the path at the cliff’s edge we soon found evidence of goats in the masses of droppings, (sadly I did not photograph this).  A father told his daughter that it was rabbit droppings and I had a sudden image of giant bunnies bouncing around.

The view from the path was stunning.  Looking up the cliff we spotted the goats

one showing us his noble profile.  I like goats and once had one in our garden and used to take him for walks on the local green.  No one took any notice.

Devon goat on cliff

They are intelligent, mischievous and have a sense of fun and yes I like the smell of male goat!

Another Haiku.

“We walk goat-dung trail.

Heavy feet where hooves once danced.

I love to smell  goat.”

 

After lunch we went to Lynton and there was a great view of goat-dung trail across the bay.

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Devon Lynton 2We wanted to visit Lynmouth and took the unusual, possibly unique, cable car down the cliff.  It is driven by the weight of water.  A tank in the upper car is filled with water from a 100 mm pipe as in the photograph to the right.  When the brake is released the weight takes it down.  The water in the lower car has been emptied out.  As one car goes down the other comes up as they are connected by cables.

Here is a video of the ride.  There was a busker playing jazz guitar at the top which gave us a good send-off.

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At the bottom in Lynmouth I was impressed by the green of the river bank as it ran under a bridge into the sea.Devon Lynton 4We decided to have a  cream tea and were amused to see a jackdaw joining in the fun.

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Then it was back up in the cable car and to Watermouth Cove.  Next day we headed off to Bideford to stay overnight with Becky and Tony.

Devon Bideford shifting sandsThe old bridge in Bideford is fascinating with its may arches of different sizes.  I am told that, as the arches were paid for by merchants long ago, the spans varied depending on how rich the merchant was.  The wider the richer.  The crane was digging berths for the working vessels that moor against the quay.

 

Here is a video of this most exciting activity.

 

Looking the other way there is the new bridge and one of the working boats.

Devon Bideford

Just in front of this were some youngsters having fun with RHIBS

 

 

We took a bus back to the house as Bideford is built on a very steep hill and we were weary.

The next day we drove back to London in almost record time thank goodness.

 

 

 

Whitewebbs: Ducks, Heron and Turtles

Whitewebbs is a lovely place to walk and we were there with our daughter and three of the eight grandchildren today and discovered something new! This prompted me to post a short piece and I hope it encourages you to visit yourselves.

Whitewebbs Stump

 

This photo and that in the heading were taken on the walk uphill to the lake near Whitewebbs House now a restaurant.  It is tranquil and magical.  Even passing dogs have a reverent air.

 

 

At the lake we fed the ducks – two or three species , coots, moorhens, with food pellets brought by Megan and Jake.

Megan spotted a heron and turtles the other side of the lake and we went to take a closer look.

There were several turtles including a baby one –

Whitewebbs Turtles

which you can see on the back of the large one on the right.

I have never seen turtles in the lake before and I was excited to discover them.

 

 

 

Tea at the Shard

Our children gave us the very generous Christmas  present of Tea at the Shard.  We decided to wait until the summer to ensure good weather and a clear view.  When we went last week it was raining and cloudy!  The week before, as it happened, I viewed the Shard on the London skyline from the roof of a hotel in Blackfriars.

Shard Skyline from Blackfriars
The Shard from the seventh floor, Blackfriars

It was at an interesting and optimistic breakfast meeting organised by the London Borough of Enfield.

On the way to the Shard  we went to Trafalgar Square,  to see the sculpture of a soldier created to remember the terrible battle of Passchendaele .

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It was formed of mud and sand from Passchendaele and it brought home to me how awful it must have been living in the trenches, how tired and despondent the troops must have been.  The statue will slowly flow way in the English rain forming a pool of mud and despair.

Passchandale

I hope we never forget this time.  Poppy Day  keeps the memory alive as does the poetry of WWII  ; also the Kodak Vest Pocket camera .

vest pocket Kodak

 Introduced in 1912 it enabled people to photograph their loved ones before they left to fight and soldiers to carry one to record their experiences.  This latter was against regulations but they were small, 1″ x 2 3/8″ x 4 3/4 “, enough to hide away.  My grandfather was in the Royal Flying Corps and I have a photo of him sitting on  a shell on a goods train but, of course I cannot find it.  From the size of the picture it was taken with this camera.  He also gave me a Mills Bomb, 

Mills grenade with tape

(deactivated) telling me that he used to drop them on enemy forces from  bi-planes.  He was the observer.  He also dropped flechettes.  flechetteMade of steel they look dreadful things.

 

 

 

 

V in National Portrait cafeWe then called in at the café in the basement of the National Portrait gallery for a drink before taking the Northern Line to London Bridge Station where we walked a few paces though gusty rain into the Shard and whizzed up 32 floors in a few seconds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had a table by the window and the view was breath-taking.

Th thames from the Shard looking East

The window’s dirty, how do they clean them,  and the glass probably is treated to keep the UV out hence the blue cast to the photo but isn’t the skyline interesting?  There is always a crane in London:

There is always a crane

I was amazed as to how many leisure craft moving around at the same time and there were two official looking bright orange RHIBs zooming here and there and two tugs towing barges.

Barges

The one above,  is towing two barges with 28 shipping containers altogether, that is 14 lorries!  The other tug was towing just one barge but this still represents 14 lorries.  The warship is HMS Belfast , well worth a visit.

Now the Tea.  Well the tea, drink, was disappointing little choice and my black tea had little taste but at over 70 I have lost half of my taste buds.  The plate of savouries were wonderful – not shown the this photo unfortunately.

Valerie

Goat cheese quiche, lobster sandwich, black pudding sausage roll and smoked salmon with dill in a small brioche roll.  The scones, see picture above, were delicate well flavoured, crisp on the outside, best I have had since my grandmother made them.  The sweets were dreadful and all tasted the same except for the chocolate cup which had an interesting chocolate crumble inside.

The mix of people was interesting, all ages,  rich, city types, the young, smart, thrusting, people from all over, Valerie and me, and a proud man leading a group of about 15 and his body language shouting ” I am going to pay for this lot!” The staff were super, to use an old fashioned adjective.

Before we left, we went to the loo.  Valerie said hers was all mirrors, she lost herself in images and mine was so stunning I quite forgot what I was there for, well almost.

There was even a light showing me where to aim for and.  I felt as if I was micturating into an exhibit at the Tate ModernLooking down I could see the lines running out of London Bridge Station.

Tarins from the Urinal

I love to see trains, like the concept of people travelling it thrilling and uplifting, mysterious.

We had to leave as the space was turning into a bar.  A price list arrived and I winced.  When I stopped drinking, beer was 58 pence a pint.

A final look down:

Leaving

and we were gone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ziggy’s and Camlet Moat Through a F1.4 lens.

One  of my photography heroes is Henri Cartier-Bresson who was a pioneer of street photography of “catching the moment”, which is what I strive to do.  He would sling two Leica 35 mm cameras around his neck one of which had an F1.4 lens.  I have always wanted such a lens but the price was ever exorbitant; for a decent one.  Then good old Panasonic brings out the LX 15 with a Leica F1.4 lens.  I can now pretend to be Bresson!   F1.4 means a large aperture and, with the wide angle, almost everything is in focus and it will take good photos in poor light.  I tried it first at the fantastic Ziggy’s jazz club:

which is run by Steve Taylor and Josie Frater . Guitarist Nigel Price and singer Tina May , both outstanding performers, were guests. They were backed by the Steve Taylor Trio. The music was just wonderful especially as some Ellington numbers were performed and Steve played a duet with the double bass player.  The Big Noise from Winnetka is one of my favourite  jazz numbers and the double bass and drums are, perhaps, my two favourite instruments.

It was a great evening especially as I was with Valerie.

The next day we went to Camlet Moat which is on the edge of Trent Park one of Enfield’s many wooded areas.  As you can see from the link, some think Camlet Moat is King Arthur’s Camelot.  Well, it might be.  Camelot means armed camp and I am sure King Arthur had many such around Britain. It is now a wooded, square, moated island though the moat is interrupted by a land bridge and covered in bright green weed.

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There used to be votive offerings hanging in the trees but some spoilsport has removed them.  To me the ribbons and trinkets were a romantic and sensitive link to the distant path.  It is still a special place, the spot where the sacred well was is still there and one of the trees has tremendous energy, I felt it as I approached.  Here it is in one corner of the island.

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When I touched it and closed my eyes, I could see the trees behind me; it was a very bright, clear image.  Not so surprising as trees have their own broadband fibre system,  Mycorrhiza, which connects trees together as well as facilitating the absorption of nutriment.

We left the island and crossed the path

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to where runners suddenly appear as if they were aliens in strange clothes running from one world to another.  We walked into a group of young trees and it was such a lovely sight

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Walking back to the car we spotted the Obelisk that is in remembrance of Harold son of the Duchess of Kent.

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Looking down from there you can see the house which was home, prisoner of war camp and then university.  Middlesex University has left Enfield; a great shame and detriment to the borough.

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Finally a picture of me in my favourite chair.

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Box Camera to Telephoto Lens

Early on, at perhaps 12 or 13 years, I was the proud owner of a Box Brownie not that any photos remain.  Still I would produce it, fiddle with the simple controls and take photos of my family.

Box Brownie

This image, taken from the internet is just how I remember it.

My Father had a Voigtlander that he had taken from a German naval officer, most likely in Denmark where he took formal surrender from the garrisons around the Danish coast.

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Again an image of one from the internet.  Dad let me use it and I felt a serious photographer.  It was beautifully made and I would take it from its leather case just to admire it, the precision and the fascinating way the bellows opened.  He kept it in a cupboard with his enlarger and other developing equipment.  I never saw him develop and print his film but I suppose he had kept it all from before the war.  It inspired me to develop and print – black and white only – my own photos.  I acquired a brilliant Russian enlarger that packed into a small brief case.

 

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The enlarger packed into the brief case

I was in my early 30s and was slim enough to crouch in the cupboard under the stairs that I had transformed into my darkroom.  I can still feel the excitement as I watched my first print appear; it was magic.  Most have gone the way of all things, though I have a couple or so left.  I swapped it with Dad for his full-sized enlarger which I never used.  All that is left is the base board I use as a ramp for the lawnmower and the lens which is a lovely chunk of glass that  I use as a magnifier; when I can find it.

In the late 60s Dad gave me his Nikon F with Photomic head and three fixed lenses in a wonderful leather case.  I tried to find it just now.  I know I have it somewhere but here is an image from the web again.

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It was a great camera and opened my eyes to how good prints can be with a decent camera and decent glass lenses.  I still like Nikon, sturdy, fabulous optics, reliable; though I now use Panasonic digital cameras.

Until a few months ago, I have never used a telephoto lens.  It is something that I was interested in using but was never sure what I would use it for.  Anyway, as Oscar Wilde advised, I gave into temptation and bought a 150 to 400mm lens – equivalent to 300 to 800 for a 35 mm wet film camera.  It is a work of art and high technology and extremely heavy due to the lenses being glass, as all good ones are.  It is complicated to use and very heavy.  The first pictures I took were of a grey wagtail sitting on her nest.  I had to lean round the corner of the house trying not to fall in the river- or leat to be pedantic – adjusting focal length and focus.

Next day I used a tripod and photographed the damsel flies dancing and courting over the yellow water lilies.

One of the ducklings had been sucked under the sluice gate opposite the balcony but it magically re-appeared.

This is where the Wagtail flies to feed.

Wagtail's retreat

We have found bullets imbedded in the limestone wall and the pock marks from, what looks like, a machine pistol.  The Gestapo were here.   The spirit of an old lady asked us to plant a rose bush in memory of those killed.  A couple of years ago we brought one out from England and several soldiers gathered round at the planting ceremony.  The week before the bush was covered with about 30 blooms but new buds were developing and I photographed one with my new lens.

Rose

The house is tranquil now.

 

Whitewebbs, trees and the Gun Powder Plot

One of the many woodlands in Enfield is  Whitewebb’s Park.  It stretches from Whitewebb’s Lane in Crewe’s Hill, near the King and Tinker to the Golf course Behind the Rose and Crown in Clay Hill by Hilly Fields.

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Not as majestic as Hadley Wood it is mysterious and interesting with many secret paths.  The remnants of the New River pass through and there is an interesting iron viaduct which I usually photograph but not this time.  I have just remembered the dam holding back a surprising amount of water.  Must photograph both when we next go.

With open spaces and plantations of little oak trees it is fun to visit.  Up by Whitewebb’s House there is a lake and seats to watch the world go by.

 

Some of the Gun Powder plot was hatched in the house and the letter that was intercepted leading to the arrest of the gang was dispatched from here too.

We plan a picnic here by the stream.  The grandchildren love playing in it.

 

 

Hadley Wood – Tree energy, Leaves and Sky, Last Years Michaelmas Daisies

We both like being amongst trees, Valerie more so than me but I love the peacefulness and tranquil quality of a wood its energy and how touching and embracing them is such a rewarding experience.

On Sunday we went to Hadley Wood, Again, which is an ancient deciduous  wood a remnant of the Royal Hunting estate that formed much of Enfield and its environs since the time of Henry II and frequently used by  Henry VIII and Elizabeth I.  There was a large Palace, Elsyng, in Enfield that Henry had for his children and from where he could hunt.  I like to think that Henry wrote many of his poems  here and perhaps even Greensleeves.

I think that being in contact with the Earth, grounding, is very important and we all too often drift away from this. Being well grounded keeps us balanced, strong and, I feel, optimistic.   Hugging tree trunks, thinking on the Earth, feeling the telluric energy helps us to ground  and crystals can also be used.  My favourite stone for this is black tourmaline

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and I have a lovely lump which is wonderfully effective.  In the background you can see lumps of rose quartz which is perhaps my favourite stone but it is black tourmaline for grounding.

On Sunday we went for a picnic in the wood and as I was lying on my back looking up at the trees, listening to the birds, I was struck as to how beautiful the leaves and branches were against the sky.

I thought of the time last September when we were in another part of Hadley Wood where we saw swathes of Michaelmas daises.

It always a treat to see them in such large numbers.

Forty Hall – Farm, Vineyard, Fete

It was a bit chilly this morning but we decided to visit the fete at Forty Hall and I am glad we did; of course it is sunny now!  The farm was open and we wandered through past Forty Hall Punch and Judythe orchard and a lonely Punch and Judy but I bet it will be surrounded by children and curious adults soon.  I love the smell of farms, the animals, hay and feed.  It was good to see the chickens but I missed the pigs.  We were on our way to look at the vineyard.  We sponsor a couple of vines and hope loads of you do as well.  It t is an imaginative and worth-while project.

Forty Hall Vinyard

Forty Hall Vinyard 2

I think it has 10,000 vines and is cultivated, by hard-working volunteers with professional supervision, organically and using Steiner’s principle of biodynamics.  It something Enfield can be proud of;  I know that I am.

One disappointment was that the farm shop did not have any sausages, (all meat products are produced from farm stock) but we had bought some rhubarb on our visit last weekend.

The lake and planting of the mound at the end are coming on well.

Canada geese are a nuisance now but young are always sweet and lovely!  I remember how excited we used to be (in the 1950s) when a V of geese flew over honking their way to somewhere. If only they would stay in the sky.

The lead  in the troupe of Albanian dancers gave a short speech.  She mentioned how they are pleased to be integrating into London and Enfield but to do this they need to be aware of their roots ( I hope that I have accurately paraphrased).  I go for this sentiment though I am not sure what my roots are.

The cedar in the background was the one we were married under.  The huge branch we stood under still looks magnificent.

The grounds were looking particularly loved and cared for and we enjoyed our stroll to the kissing gate and so home.

Forty Hall and Funnel Spiders

We are lucky to have many parks and open spaces in Enfield, one is Forty Hall an early Jacobean manor house.  Sunday we decided to go there via the car boot in Enfield Town Market.  We parked in the little car park behind the Grammar and County Schools.  There is a rare Ginko tree in one corner, it is the small tree on the left.

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A friend, whose green fingers extend to trees, helped the company move it here, not sure where from.

Walking to the market place along Holly Walk, I spotted a funnel spider in a wall of yellow London stock bricks.  It is always a shock to witness the speed at which the spider, lurking deep suddenly appears to capture any fly or other creature that lands on the stoop of its home.

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The bricks were made from London clay. There were several brick fields in Enfield and much of Enfield was built using these bricks about 1890 to 1910. The clay has been all used up so they cannot now be made.  We passed another piece of history, a red brick building built by Henry VIII when he endowed the Grammar School.  A later memory is the upper floor of a building that had Boots on the ground floor.  Not sure what it is now though we walked past it!

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So to Forty Hall.  The link to the web site gives details of this exceptional park and house, I am blogging about our walk there.  I’ve been going to forty Hall for over 50 years and Valerie for longer.  Her parents were offered accommodation there but didn’t take the offer up, the shops were too far I suspect.  Despite this we wandered into a part we had not been to before and found bluebells to boot!

 

It was secret with little tracks, quiet.  The path we followed led to one we had often walked on.

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And then we came to one of my favourite trees, a huge sweet chestnut.

 

 

 

Henry VIII had a palace here, Elsynge, it is now thought to be a major one.  Archaeological excavations are carried out each summer.  The site is somewhere behind this small oak.

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Edward VI was there with his sister Elizabeth when he was told of his father’s, Henry VIII, death and that he was now King of England.  It seems Henry planned much of the dissolution of the monasteries here and I like to think he wrote his hunting poems here maybe even Green Sleeves.

We walked where once walked Princes, Kings and Queens.

France is still France in the EU

 

Being in a Union does not destroy individuality, After 300 years Scotland is still Scotland and Scots know that they are Scots and I know when I am in Scotland.  It is the same for Wales which survived the Welsh Knot.  As to the English?  I suggest you read Jeremy Paxman’s book – The English: A portrait of a People and Exotic England: The Making of a Curious Nation – by Yasmin Alibhai Brown.

Last week we travelled to France on Brittany Ferry and, at at the dreadful hour of six, tinkles on the public address system woke us to a view of St Malo through the porthole.

St Malo from Porthole

Friday we had a delightful French evening which started by having dinner with our son and daughter-in-law and a Dutch couple who are good friends.  It was a pizzeria so I had my favourite with capers, olives, anchovies, oregano on the bed of tomato and cheese.  We then went to a small community theatre where a friend was performing singing typically French songs.

The excellent singer, ambience, audience,  glasses of rosé cider, the intensity of the performer and audience was vraiment Francais.  ( I cannot find the cedilla).

There is the wonderful oven-roasted beetroot in Leclerc (my favourite supermarket)

Beautiful beetroot baked that has been baked in an oven, on display in Leclerc
Beautiful beetroot baked that has been baked in an oven, on display in Leclerc
and delicious asparagus bought in the Market at Mauzé sur le Mignon.

One tent supported a society for the protection of “Itinerant Singers” modern day troubadours I suppose,

Itinerant Chanteuse

and there were squares and impasses as well as a very French Café.

Where else but France can I have a plate of whelks, clams, mussels, cucumber salad and hard-boiled egg in a transport café ( Les Pyramids) ?  Well Napoleon was an Egyptian buff,  his soldiers used the Sphinx as target practice.

The shellfish came from a magnificent buffet and it was followed by delicious poached cod.  (The bread was great which is unusual in France nowadays)

Before

So back to Epron and an English rose in a French garden alongside a French river.  The French do rivers very well.

Oops! I almost forgot. France makes toilet paper par éxcellence!

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