HOORAH! HONEY MANGOES ARE BACK.

Yes!   These delicious, out-of-this world fruits are back in Ponders End.

A box of be-jewelled and succulent Honey Mangoes.
A box of be-jewelled,  succulent and luscious Honey Mangoes.

Last year was so difficult with the ban on the import of this wonderful fruit from India and Pakistan.   My heart screamed with horror but my head knew it was right but now there is harmony.  To mark the occasion I post one of my mango poems.

Mango

In dull Ponders End, glorious, exotic colours!
Boxes red, blue, gold, I bought one
from a man in a khaki tunic, dense beard;
six, Royal, Honey Mangoes.
You like them don’t you.
I sell eighty boxes a day.
They were piled up on the pavement
outside the shop by the mosque
full of men in white; yes just men
all with beard and crocheted cap.
Next door they sell Barfi, Halwa, lentils
and twists of  deep-fried, orange-stained,
sugar-soaked batter.

From the door you can see
Weatherspoon’s* in the Picture Palace
where  Mosquitoes** were once assembled
by Enfield’s men and women,
whilst bombs fell in the High Street.
I remember black and grey days
my gabardine raincoat
ersatz jam with sawdust pips.

You exactly fit my hand.
Lie there listless, with yellow,
shadow-dimpled skin.
Shining, bright-coloured strips
are pinioned by a brilliant label
as some intimate jewel.

Sharply, I slit down to your core,
carefully spoon you open.
The flesh that meets my lips
is as soft as a woman,
sweet and subtly fragrant,
a complicated taste.

What else could you be
my Pakistani mango?

© Anthony Fisher July 2012

*British pub chain that specialises in using unusual buildings.
**World war II bomber designed by De Havilland.  It was made of wood so Enfield’s furniture factories could make sections that could be assembled elsewhere.

The man in the shop told me he now sells 100 boxes per day.

FROM BRICK LANE AND THALI TO FORTY HALL AND THE MAGNA CARTA

Up to 300 languages are spoken in London and when Valerie and I boarded the train to go to Liverpool Street Station it seemed that all were being spoken at once!  It was a lovely, lively atmosphere, a real buzz and good start to the day.  We were headed for Brick Lane to see what is was like, absorb the ambiance and, of course eat a decent meal. It is just a 12 minute walk from the Station and it was a lovely sunny day.  Brick lane is a narrow Street lined with what look like Georgian buildings maybe Victorian, I don’t know but it is an interesting place with people from all over.

A view down Brick Lane
A view down Brick Lane
Brick Lane suddenly empty
Brick Lane suddenly empty

Many shops sold vinyl records others Indian  sweets.

Trays of Balfi, Halwa and loads of things I did not recognise.
Trays of Balfi, Halwa and loads of things I did not recognise.

There were retro clothes and indoor markets from time to time.

There were so many restaurants there were barkers outside each trying to tempt people to go in to eat, amazing!  We eventually chose one.  It was bright, with a very welcoming atmosphere and staff.  One was bubbling over with happiness and excitement as he was going back to Bangladesh with his young family for the first time in 9 years, three weeks of being in paradise.  He spoke of fresh fish from the family lake, vegetables fruit and lychees from bushes as tall as him laden with these delicious fruit.  It was uplifting just to hear him talk. Genuine Bangladeshi music was being played and we felt very welcome.  We both ordered Vegetarian Thali and it was delicious, fresh, well prepared and cooked.

Freshly prepared and cooked, it tasted as good as it looks.
Vegetarian Thali. Freshly prepared and cooked, it tasted as good as it looks.

Now was the time to wander back to the station via Spitalfields indoor market.  The streets were quiet and empty, where were all the people?

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Well they were all in the market and what noise! It must be how a hive of bees sounds and, this time, all three hundred languages in London were being spoken.

We were only able to stay in a short while and were soon home.

The evening we went to Forty Hall to attend a talk and poetry reading given by Alan Murray on Freedom and the Magna Carta. 

Entering Forty Hall
Entering Forty Hall

He read poems, talked and a recorder group with viols, Helios, played music of the time Alan was referring to.  It was such a change from Brick Lane and Spitalfields and I learnt how poets fight injustice and encourage others to do so as well.  I realised why governments imprison poets or exile them.  As we left I was truck by the evening view from the Front door down to the river past Elsynge Palace where Henry VIII planned the Reformation in defiance of one of the paragraphs in the Magna Carta.

Looking down towards the river and Elsynge Palace from the entrance of Forty Hall.
Looking down towards the river and Elsynge Palace from the entrance of Forty Hall.

BEETROOT AND PAELLA IN FRANCE

It is difficult to find a good restaurant in France but I can always rely on beetroot baked in an oven.

Beautiful beetroot baked that has been baked in an oven, on display in Leclerc
Beautiful beetroot that has been baked in an oven, on display in Leclerc.

I have come to realise how spoilt we are in North London surrounded by so many good restaurants with a wide range of cuisines.  Normally we choose an Indian when we go out but are looking forward to eating at the Lebanese restaurant I’ve been told of and there is a Japanese one near it.  As I have written in a previous blog, my favourite non-Indian restaurant , L’Orangerie is just 8 km away so all is not lost though a decent Indian restaurant would be perfect. 

We recently  went to Fouras and had a lunch on the point where oysters are harvested.  The oysters were just magnificent the rest of the meal less so. 

The oysters were magnificent.  Wish I'd had a couple of dozen!
The oysters were magnificent. Wish I’d had a couple of dozen!

Next time I’ll just have a dozen of so oysters and fish soup I think.

There is a quaint restaurant nearby in the small hotel “Au Bon Accueil“.  It does not have a web site but there is a small picture of it and map on Google.  For some reason it is described as an Italian restaurant but it has a French menu with paella and accordion on Fridays.  The ambience is superb and the husband and wife who own it delightful welcoming hosts, hippies I think.  The paella was not as good as it has been but the cold buffet for hors d’oeuvres and the atmosphere of the place made up for it, especially the accordion.  I certainly recommend it.

Finally I need to mention brown shrimps, or grey shrimps as the French call them.  I always buy them in the market and have them for lunch on Saturday.  I am sure Leclerc sell them so I could have them more often.  I’ll have a look.

RAIN IN WALES, SWANS IN WINDSOR, POPPIES IN ENFIELD

My sister is over rom the USA and we thought to go to Wales for a couple of days.  We stayed in a delightful  B&B Cwmbach Cottages Guesthouse.  It was quiet, except for the glorious bird song, and the owner wonderfully gave me Bara Lawr with my breakfast on the last day.  It is lovely with egg and bacon. Nearby is the Crown and Sceptre pub which serves delicious, hot food which was a decided bonus.  Monday Valerie visited a friend in Neath and Sarah and I went to see my brother-in-law in Pont-y-Berem a small village 10 miles southeast of Carmarthen.  It was an enjoyable reminiscing visit.  The village is much spruced up since the days I would visit (see my collection Poems from Wales).  John told me that as well as being a drinker, Mr. Rednose as the children called him, was a prolific womaniser with mistresses all around and in the village.  I may have to rewrite that particular poem!

After another meal in the Crown and Sceptre that evening Valerie suggested we went to look at the sea at Aberavon.  It was pouring with rain, grey with a strong and cold wind.  Muggins foolishly left the car to video whilst sister and wife sat warm and dry in the car.

I wondered why the camera was shaking until I realise that I was so cold I was shivering.  Idiot!

The next day we drove back and decided to stop in Windsor for lunch.  The Royal Standard was flying which was a bonus for me.  Swans gathered by the river cruisers; the kiosk was selling food for them.

Swans Waiting for their lunch which I was pleased to provide.
Swans Waiting for their lunch which I was pleased to provide.

I’m a sucker for this and bought some for us all to feed them

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which was appreciated by the swans though they may have been better off scouring the river.

I love being close to birds and animals and would hand feed swans when we took a narrow boat to Hertford on the River Lea. They would swim up when we were moored to the bank.  So when a large gentleman swan nudged my posterior I was delighted to feed him.

I was quite disappointed when the food ran out but, it was time to leave for home.

Here it was sunny, dry and welcoming.  The poppy in the garden though past its best was still beautiful.  It is one of my favourite flowers.

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Past its best but still lovely.
Past its best but still lovely.

FORTY HALL

Forty Hall is another of Enfield’s garden and open spaces with the added benefit of a wonderful early Jacobean Manor house. Enfield Council has renovated the house and now the garden so it is much as it was when first built.  Down by the river there are the remains of Elsynge Palace where Henry VIII is supposed to have planned the dissolution of monasteries.  As the Gunpowder plot was supposed to have been discussed in nearby Whitewebb’s Enfield breathes revolution it seems.  With farm and vineyard it is a wonderful place to visit.  We walked there the other day and I just want to post a few of the photographs I took.

As we have family and a house in France we are often there and I just love to see mistletoe growing in the trees and there is magnificent collection on one of the trees near the river.

Joyous mistletoe in Forty Hall
Joyous mistletoe in Forty Hall

There are many oaks and for the first time  I saw some Oak flowers.  Never noticed them before.

Well they need flowers to reproduce.  It's just I had noticed them before.
Well they need flowers to reproduce. It’s just I had not noticed them before.

The Azaleas were in full bloom and wonderful  At one time I would travel to Japan and I remember how beautiful they were there. Well, they are beautiful in Enfield too.

Azaleas on the path from Car park to House in Forty Hall.
Azaleas on the path from car park to House in Forty Hall.

Finally some bluebells.  Not many but it always gives me a thrill to come across them.  They were growing down by Maiden’s Bridge where Raleigh was supposed to have laid down his cloak on a puddle for Queen Elizabeth I to walk on.

Some Bluebells.  Not many but pretty all the same.
Some Bluebells. Not many but pretty all the same.

It was a lovely walk.

MYDDLETON HOUSE

We are lucky to have many open spaces and gardens in Enfield and Myddleton House has one of them.

Wisteria planted in 1903
Wisteria planted in 1903 by the bridge in Myddleton House Gardens

Magnificent wisteria planted by Edward Bowles in 1903 by the bridge that crossed the New River when it flowed here. It’s trunk is almost as thick as my waist and the flowers beautiful.

Poppies and Daisies Myddleton House
Poppies and daisies are such pretty flowers

I love poppies and daisies and a step away from the bridge is a tiny meadow of them.

Iris came to earth on a rainbow with a message from the gods  for mankind.  Not sure what that was but these blooms are lovely behind the greenhouse, maybe she bought these?

Black Iris
Black Iris and Golden Panther

There are many seats and benches where you can sit, read, gaze into space or do nothing at all.

Reading on a Bench enjoying the shade.
Reading on a Bench enjoying the shade.

Or you can be photographed

Succulent Mydleton House cropped

behind these great succulents.

Succulent Myddleton House 2 cropped

I could not resist taking a picture of these flowers looking like characters in Dr Who.

Cacti Myddleton House 2

For 20 pence you can buy some food to feed the  carp but the lazy duck and few feeders makes me think they are over fed.

It was approaching 1700 and someone was ringing a hand bell so it was time to leave.  I did not want to be locked in.

PERTISAU AND THE CHALET SCHOOL BOOKS AND AVE MARIA

We were in Pertisau to see the village that inspired Elinor Brent-Dyer to write the Chalet School series of books.  There is a plaque in the library commemorating this.

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The building that became the school is still standing though it has been empty for some years.

Now empty and surrounded by trees this is the building that became, in the books, the school.
Now empty and surrounded by trees this is the building that became, in the books, the school.

The little church is probably much the same as it was when Elinor visited it in, I think, the 1930s or maybe late 1920s.

Pertisau Church with the ski lift showing as a brown streak down the mountain.
Pertisau Church with the ski lift showing as a brown streak down the mountain.

On our last evening at 6pm I heard music and rushed out. Ave Maria was being played over the loud speakers in the sharp spire of the church.  There was no time to retrieve my digital recorder from my bag so I whipped out my trusty, ever-ready iPhone and recorded the sound.  It was beautiful listening to music that filled the valley with birds doing there best to join in.

 

Earlier we had seen an extraordinary fence made out of split pine and held together with flexible branches.

The split pine was held together by flexible pine branches.  It was strong and firm.
The split pine was held together by flexible pine branches. It was strong and firm.

So then it was back to Salzburg.  Getting to the Hotel was a struggle as all the roads seemed to be closed because of a marathon the next day.  I had to throw through a fit, beat a tattoo on the steering wheel whilst Valerie held her head in her hands.  The guard was so impressed he let us through the final 30 metres.  We had driven past him several times over an hour!!!

The Golden Hirsch was a great place to be for Valerie’s birthday and for our last evening in Salzburg.

 Hotel Golden Hirsch
Hotel Golden Hirsch

The next day we left for the airport and home.

 

PERTISAU

Once we had negotiated the roadworks in Salzburg the journey to Pertisau was very pleasant.  It was strange driving surrounded by mountains and I suppose these were the cause of all the traffic.  Less roads due to mountains so heavier traffic.  To get to Pertisau we drove down the mountain road to Maurach where there was a cable car to the top of Mount Rofan.  We travelled this the next day, the first time on a cable car for me, and it was good fun.  The view down from the mountain was desolate as most of the snow had gone.

View from Mount Rofan
View from Mount Rofan

We could see the edge of Lake Achensee.

In Pertisau we stayed in a very comfortable apartment on the ground floor, the Fortuna.  The family who owned and ran it were extremely friendly and we were made to feel most welcome.  Pertisau was once a small village with a  few shops, a hotel and church.  Now it is crowded with apartments for all the energetic who ski and climb mountains.  As for us, we wanted to wander around and it was great for that.  I was fascinated by the way clouds rolled around the mountains. Pertisau Cloud and Lake AchenseePertisau Clouds, mountains, lake Achensee

Mountain's edge Pertisau
Mountains’ edge
Anthony in his Tyrolean Hat
Anthony on top of Mount Rofan wearing his new Tyrolean hat.
Pertisau Marching band
What a fabulous band leader!
Pertisau Marching band 2 cropped
An amused flute player.

 As well as this natural beauty I found a tourist shop that sold hats and many fitted, some were too big!  Normally I struggle to find one to fit so I had to buy one.  In the Afternoon we drove to the cable car at the foot of Mount Rofan in Maurach.  On the way we had to stop for a band marching to the beat of a single snare drum.  I love the sound of a drum and the band looked great.  Later we were to hear them playing from the other side of the lake.  Here they were just marching amused by the Englishman with his iPhone camera.

 

 

SALZBURG

Salzburg.  Bridge of locks from afar.
Viewing the pedestrian bridge over the Salzach River from the south.

Early May was Valerie’s special birthday and we went to Austria to celebrate.  First Salzburg where we stayed in the family owned Bristol Hotel which was comfortable and being family-owned felt special.  We had arrived on an early flight so had time to wander across the Salzach River over a pedestrian bridge with lover’s locks fastened to the modern stainless steel mesh at the sides. From here we could see the Fortress we later visited. 

Pedestrian bridge over the Salzbach river.
Viewing the Fortress from the bridge

The old town was almost a maze of crowded narrow streets which were great fun.  One shop sold nothing but decorated eggs

Decorated eggs in Salzburg
This shop sold nothing but decorated eggs.

and others Mozart memorabilia. 

We used the funicular railway to get to the fortress, Hohensalzburg Castle, with its great views of Salzburg and a museum with armour clad iron soldiers just as the skeletons were in a Sinbad film I once saw. 

Old armour in Slazburg Fortress.
Iron soldiers arisen to fight.
Salzburg. Chastity belt.
Heavy iron chastity belt.
Salzburg.  Iron mask.
What a weird mask.

In the next room was an extra-ordinary iron chastity belt and weird iron mask.   

Next day the breakfast was fabulous in a wonderfully lit room with over-head mirror.

Breakfast table Hotel Bristol, Slazburg, Austria.
Breakfast table Hotel Bristol

  Cold meats, cheese, boiled eggs, rye bread all in the way of Austrian breakfast and delicious bacon, scrambled eggs, tomatoes for usWe checked out and set out in the hire car to Pertisau.

WILD GARLIC

wild garlic, couleuvre, snake,
The little track.

We were at our home in France for the last three days.  It was a good visit, the builder is reliable and skilled as well as becoming a friend and the final works are being finished.  We may even have a courtyard and lawn by our next visit!.  Thursday Morning we went for a walk along the little track on the other side of the river.  At one point it is quite steep where,about five years ago, a snake, a couleuvreslithered out of the hedge and wrapped itself around Valerie’s right ankle. It was so fast.  I heard a rustle and suddenly it was there it was well over a meter long, perhaps even one and a half metres.  It kept head butting her as she hopped along trying to shake it off.  Suddenly it let go and was gone. Valerie was totally unfazed and kept on walking. It was olive green, a female and according to Wikipedia the one that the Romans consider a healing snake and  a pair of them the form the caduceus which is strictly the sign of Hermes or Mercury not Aescalapius who was the god of physicians and has only one snake.  Wikipedia is wonderful isn’t it.  This time we found masses of wild garlic and the air was full of its delicious smell but no snakes. 

She Loves me.  Dandelion clock with wild garlic.
She Loves me. Dandelion clock with wild garlic.

There were lots of other wild flowers and a few sheep in the
adjoining field.

The lamb was just a few hours old.
The lamb was just a few hours old.

One little lamb had only just been born.

Wild garlic and Asparagus, l'orangerie, asparagus, wild garlic
Wild garlic and Asparagus,

That evening we went for a meal at my favourite (non-Indian) restaurant anywhere, L’Orangerie and wild garlic appeared, again, at the meal. This time the beautiful little six-petalled star, white flowers were used to decorate my hors d’oeuvre or starter.  It was beautiful and the dish which was chicken liver mousse, crispy Vendée ham and a spear of fat, white asparagus wonderful.  The other sprig was a leaf of celery.